Friday 31 July 2009

Ignalina - not all that bad

People know Ignalina for the nuclear power plant, but after going there this week, I have found that it is among the most pleasant spots in Lithuania.


View Larger Map

People are amazingly friendly, the city is good looking (outside the Soviet built centre) and it is cheap as hell.

Even those coming from Vilnius will notice how cheap the place is because it isn't a capital city and is off the tourism map.

What many people don't know is that Ignalina, where the country's nuclear power plant is located, is that it is on the edge of the Aukstaitija National Park (ANP). ANP is arguably the country's nicest inland location with beautiful lakes, forests full of berries, wild camping in the forests, fishing and more. ANP was the location for the esoteric Lithuanian film, which is worth seeing, "Aš esu tu".

When I went there, there was good weather, a breeze smelling of fresh forest flowers and great scenery. Perhaps the only bad thing about the city is that its only real restaurant is not easy to find. Of course, once you get there, it will be a great experience - in fact it was probably one of the best Lithuanian restaurant experiences I've had in recent years.

Getting there is really easy too - take the train from Vilnius to get there. The train costs around 15 litas and various discounts are available for those under 26 and more. Check the train website for times.

Monday 27 July 2009

Relaxing traditional music

A song that all Lithuanians know. Be warned - this may soothe you!

Sunday 26 July 2009

Seaside bliss - go there while you can!




Palanga is the seaside resort that Lithuanians, Russians, Latvians, Swedes and Germans alike flock to in the summer time looking for a nice beach.

This white sands getaway is beach, beach and more beach (something like 18 kilometres of uninterrupted sand) with some other nice features to boot. While you're not relaxing on the beach getting a tan, you can go shopping for souvenirs and other kitschy rubbish on the central Basanaviciaus street where they have restaurants blaring out Russian pop and kalinka classics. On the side of the street is an amusement park with rides and other entertainment.

Of course that's not all folks - there is the Palanga botanical gardens which has a number of attractions of its own such as Birute's hill - an archaeological site of a town covered by a sand dune. The gardens also have the museum of Amber, which the Lithuanians are famous for. The museum used to be the Tiskeviciu palace and is surrounded by gardens, fountains and statues.

Despite all these other attractions, the main reasons people come to Palanga is still the beach and to party, which often occur at the same time. While lazing in the sun, on your towel soaking in the rays, you can buy beers and fried bread. Often people working in the restaurants will come to you with the food ready. While this can be pretty annoying when you don't want a Ceburekas (deep fried pancake with pork filling) or Kepta duona (fried black bread with garlic and salt), it is nice when you are getting a bit peckish. Beers usually go for 1.20 and the bread is about one quid.

Be aware that you can get burnt in this sun!

Swimming is good even though you can't see your feet in the greenish water once you are in knee deep. The water is clean, but has some algae and seaweed floating in it, clouding the view, but never fear.

Food in the city is all traditional Lithuanian and Armenian for some reason. It is the only place I know in Lithuania that has any noticeable Armenian cuisine and it is voluminous. Make sure you go to the restaurants hungry, but also bring enough cash because it is more expensive that other places.

Finding a place to stay in Palanga is easy as pie - just turn up and find one of the old ladies at the bus station who will take you to their house. A room can be anywhere from 40 litas (about 10 pounds at the time of writing) to 100 (25 pounds) for a fairly nice room for two. These are usually near the beach, but be aware that conditions vary significantly. You get what you pay for.

As the Lithuanian saying goes "a greedy person pays twice (later)"

Getting there is easy - there are trains to nearby Kretinga or you can take the bus or fly to the Palanga international airport.